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PET BUGS: Exotic Arthropods
Care and keeping of Exotic arthropods.
by Ryan Reed and Blake Newton, University of Kentucky Department of Entomology

INTRODUCTION Some exotic arthropods, like tarantulas and hissing cockroaches, make great pets when given proper care.  This guide can help you choose which types of arthropods to keep as a pet.  It also provides details on housing, feeding, and other care details for several popular species.     Madagascar Roaches     Tarantulas     Emperor Scorpions     Millipedes

Important Information - Keeping and caring for insects, spiders, and their relatives is great way to observe these fascinating creatures.  It is also a big responsibility.  Never keep an animal in captivity unless you are prepared to provide the proper living conditions. Also be aware that, although most spider and insect species that are sold in pet stores are not considered dangerous, any animal can be dangerous under the right circumstances.  In fact, other than giant cockroaches, it is best NEVER to handle any of the arthropods mentioned here, especially tarantulas and scorpions, both of which are capable of delivering venom.

MADAGASCAR ROACHES Giant Madagascar "hissing" cockroaches are the best arthropods to keep in captivity.  They are inexpensive (less than $1 per-roach when ordered in groups), safe to handle, and easy to care for.  They will also readily breed in captivity. Container: These roaches should be kept in a 2.5-10 gallon aquarium or similar container.  About a dozen adult roaches (plus many immature roaches) can be kept in a 2.5 gallon tank; more can be held in larger tanks.  The roaches will not harm one another if enough food is present.  These roaches (especially the babies) are expert escape artists, so make sure to use a lid that is escape proof but that is also well-ventilated (to reduce mold). Housing Features: Line the cage with 1-2 inches of dry bedding material such as red bran, aspen chips, or shredded newspaper (do not use cedar chips, which can be toxic).  Replace with fresh bedding material at least once a month.  You should also provide a place for the roaches to hide, like a dried coconut half, egg crates, rolls from paper-towel tubes, or a chunk of wood for the roaches to burrow beneath. Food: green lettuce, apples, carrots, bananas, other fruits and vegetables.  Small amounts of dry dog- or cat food should also be available to the roaches at all times. Humidity and Water: These roaches need relatively high humidity (apx 50%+). Keep the humidity high by heating the cage from underneath (as with an aquarium heater) and by keeping a dish of water in the cage.  The dish of water will provide humidity and drinking water.   Temperature: room temperature or warmer, up to 90 degrees F. Life span: 2-3 years Breeding: For breeding to occur, make sure to maintain the temperature in the high range (80-90 degrees) and keep the humidity high.  When the babies are born, they are very small and can escape through small holes, so make sure that your container is escape proof (a 1" swath of petroleum jelly wiped around the inside of the container near the top will help keep the babies from escaping). For additional details on keeping Madagascar roaches, see the Madagascar Hissing Cockroach care sheet at www.petbugs.com.

TARANTULAS Many species of tarantulas that are sold as pets, but some species are aggressive and dangerous.  Others are expensive or difficult to care for.  We suggest sticking to the following widely available species, all three of which are relatively non-aggressive and inexpensive: Chilean Rose-Hair Tarantula, Grammostola rosea: The common rose-hair is the most popular pet tarantula species and has a well-deserved reputation for non-aggression.  Adults are commonly available on-line and at pet stores for less than $20.  These spiders grow to 4-5 inches and females can live for 15 or more years (males will only live for 4-5 years at most). Mexican Red-Knee Tarantula, Brachypelma smithi:  Probably the second-most popular tarantula, the red-knee is known for its attractive brown and orange pattern and its docile temperament. This spider is usually more expensive than the rose-hair; typically $40-50 for adults.  Red-knee females can live for 20 years (males will only live for 4-5 years) when cared for properly and can grow to about 5-6 inches. Brazilian Black Tarantula, Grammostola pulchra: This black tarantula species is known for its calm nature, but it tends to be more expensive than red-knees and rose-hairs.  Like the red-knee, females can can live for up to 20 years and can grow to 5-6 inches. WARNING!  Tarantulas are spiders, and all spider have venomous fangs!  Although the tarantulas recommended here tend to be non-aggressive, all species ARE able to bite.  Also, many tarantula species have "urticating hairs" on their abdomens.  These hairs are like tiny pieces of glass and can cause severe eye and skin reactions.  For these reasons, we recommend that people do not pick up, pet, or hold tarantulas.  They are best observed within their containers. TARANTULA CARE: The Chilean Rose Hair, the Mexican Red-Knee, and the Brazilian Black can all be cared for in the same way, using the guidelines below. Container: A tarantula should be kept in a 5-10 gallon glass aquarium.  Only one tarantula should be kept in a single aquarium.  The lid should be escape proof and should retain some humidity, but there should be holes present to allow for air exchange (important for reducing mold). Housing Features:  The bottom of a tarantula cage should be lined with 3-5 inches of moist potting soil or peat moss.  Make sure to use potting soil or peat moss that is free of added pesticides or fertilizers.  Do not use soil from the yard or outside garden: it is likely contaminated with pesticides and microbes that can kill the spider.  Replace with fresh soil at least once a month.  You should also provide a place for the tarantula to hide (like dried coconut halves).  Humidity and Water: Although many tarantula species require high humidity, the Chilean Rose Hair, Mexican Red-Knee, and the Brazilian Black need only moderate humidity levels.  As long as the soil isn't completely dry, it is probably humid enough, and this level of humidity will probably be maintained by the presence of a water dish.  Use a shallow dish, always keep it filled with fresh water, and clean the dish at least once every few days. Food: Pet tarantulas will feed on crickets purchased at a pet store.  If you buy a baby tarantula, make sure to ask for tiny "pinhead crickets."  As a general rule, always give your spider crickets that are no larger than one-half the body length.  Offer the spider a few crickets (3-5) at a time, but only 1-2 times per week.  If the spider doesn't eat the crickets in an hour or so, remove the crickets and offer them again in a few days. Temperature: room temperature or warmer, up to about 85 degrees F For additional details about tarantula care, visit Care and Husbandry of the Chilean Rose-Hair Tarantula.  The information on this site can be also be applied to the Mexican Red-Knee and Brazilian Black Tarantula.

EMPEROR SCORPIONS Although scorpions have a deadly reputation, the Black Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus imperator, is generally docile and has a relatively weak sting (similar to bee or wasp venom).  It thrives in captivity and is the exotic scorpion that we recommend to keep as a pet.  It is inexpensive ($10-20) and easy to find at pet stores. WARNING!  Like all scorpions, the emperor scorpion has a venomous stinger.  Although this species tends to be non-aggressive, its venom is capable of producing a serious reaction, especially in allergic individuals.  For this reason, we recommend that pet scorpions never be handled. Container: An emperor scorpion should be kept in a 5-10 gallon glass aquarium.  Only one scorpion should be kept in a single aquarium.  The lid should be escape proof and should retain humidity, but there should be holes present to allow for air exchange (important for reducing mold). Housing features: The bottom of an emperor scorpion cage should be lined with 3-5 inches of moist potting soil or peat moss.  Make sure to use potting soil or peat moss that is free of added pesticides or fertilizers.  Do not use soil from the yard or outside garden: it may be contaminated with pesticides and microbes.  Replace with fresh soil at least once a month.  You should also provide a place for the scorpion to hide, like a dried coconut half, or a flat rock for the scorpion to burrow beneath. Food: Emperor scorpions will feed on crickets purchased at a pet store.  If you buy a baby scorpion, make sure to ask for tiny "pinhead crickets."  Offer the scorpion a few crickets (3-5) at a time, but only 1-2 times per week.  If the scorpion doesn't eat the crickets in an hour or so, remove the crickets and offer them again in a few days.  It is also a good idea to offer your scorpion larger prey once every few months, such as one of the "pinky mice" that reptile enthusiasts offer to pet snakes. Humidity and Water: Emperor scorpions require a humid environment.  Keep their soil moist (but not wet!) by occasionally misting the cage with water.  Provide fresh water in the form of a shallow dish that is cleaned at least every few days. Temperature: 80-90 degrees F Life span: 5-10 years For additional details on keeping emperor scorpions, visit Lucian Ross's The Emperor Scorpion, Pandinus imperator (C.L. KOCH) in Captivity Part I: Basic Care and Maintenance.

MILLIPEDES

African Giant Black Millipede, Archispirostreptus gigas: Few millipede species are suited for captivity, but the African Giant Black Millipede is inexpensive ($20-40) and relatively easy to care for, although it tends to be more difficult to take care of than the other creatures listed on this page.  These millipedes are harmless, but we recommend that they not be held.  Handling seems to stress the millipedes, possibly causing them to stop eating.  The millipedes can also exude a yellow chemical (a defense mechanism) which can stain hands and clothing and possibly lead to allergic reactions, including rashes and swelling, in sensitive individuals.  Container: Keep millipedes in a 5-10 gallon glass aquarium.  Several millipedes can be kept in a single aquarium.  The lid should be escape proof and should retain humidity, but there should be holes present to allow for air exchange (important for reducing mold). Housing features: Line the bottom of the millipede cage with 4-5 inches of moist (not wet) peat moss or potting soil.  Make sure to use potting soil or peat moss that is free of added pesticides or fertilizers.  Do not use soil from the yard or outside garden: it is likely contaminated with pesticides and microbes.  Replace with fresh soil at least once a month.  You should also provide a place for the millipede to hide, like a dried coconut half, or a chunk of wood for the millipede to burrow beneath. Food: green lettuce, bananas, apples, cucumbers, and other fruits and vegetables.  Also provide a source of calcium (available in powder form at pet stores). Humidity and Water: These millipedes require a humid environment, so keep their soil moist (but not wet!) by occasionally misting the cage with water.  Provide fresh water in the form of a small, shallow dish that is cleaned at least every few days. Temperature: 75-85 degrees F Life span: 7-10 years For additional details on keeping giant millipedes, see the African Giant Black Millipede care sheet at www.petbugs.com.

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Photos courtesy B. Newton and R. Bessin, University of Kentucky Department of Entomology.