Lecture Organization
1. Commodity chain dynamics:
Concentration
of ownership
retail
space: a limit to environmental choices?
2. Commodity logic:
Consumer
spaces: Retail giants in the West
Commodity
Chains: Linking West and Non-West
Value
and Resource Use
The Apparel Industry: a knowledge test
?? What percentage of US apparel is controlled by the top 5 firms? What
are they?
Percentage of apparel controled by top 5 firms = 068%
Firms: year 2000 data
Wal-Mart
Sears
Kmart
Dayton Hudson (target, mervynÕs, daytonÕs, hudsonÕs,
marshall field)
JC
Penney
Next 24 firms = 30%
Same trend in other first
world nations
Year
2010 data
1. Commodity chains: Basic concepts
a.
Consumption and
production are linked through a web of sites
b.
Nodes and links
c.
Each node and link has social,
economic and environmental consequences
social=affects lives through work relations,
economic = wealth is accummulated,
ecological = production activities affect the
environment
2.
Producer Driven Commodity Chains
Producer-driven commodity chains managed
by product producers. Retail owners have little control over commodity-chain structure
3.
Buyer-Driven
Commodity Chains
4. Power: who controls the commodity chain? Who determines how things (nature,
labor) are valued in production?
Is this ÔnaturalÕ?
History of the commodity
Commodities in Nature
Buyer-Driven
Chains are controlled by retailers or larger intermediary purchasers
(Wholesalers)
Triangle Manufacturing/Sourcing: the foreign
producer becomes a middle merchant who then contracts most or all production to
firms in other regions/countries
see Gereffi article for
additional information
Struggle: Buyer- versus producer-driven chains, Who will wrest control of
manufacturing?
Who will advance
'up the ladder' to brand manufacturing independence:
OEM
(original equipment) manufacturing, or Ôfull-packageÕ manufacture,
then to OBM (Own Brand) manufacture as foreign
companies begin to produce their own brands.
Branded apparel
manufactures:
widely recognized brands that carry out no manufacturing whatsoever:
Ôborn globalÕ with outsourcing always overseas.
Struggle
a.
a tension exists
between foreign OBM manufacturing and first world retail firms
b.
This tension is
evident in the struggle over Ôup-gradingÕ where foreign manufacturers try to
gain a larger share of value-added in (in this example) the apparel industry
The
Environment:
a. retail spaces
are very much controlled in the United States, and to a lesser degree in other
'northern' nations
b. this lack of
competition may reduce consumer access to knowledge about the environmental
'green' characteristics of consumer items since retailers do not compete to
provide this information
c. This also
facilitates overseas production and the exploitation of 'triangle'
manufacturing in which retailers have little control over environmental or
labor conditions
Conclusion
1.
Commodity chains
are increasingly global in scope
2.
The location of
the different nodes, however, is constantly changing
3.
Commodity chains
embed power relations: the nodes each contain real people with interests in the
location of brand name manufacture
4.
the struggle is
over who will run the brand name game. JC PennyÕs is instructive in this
regard. They were snubbed by Liz Claiborne for distribution early on, but have
since developed their own brands and have come back strong (e.g., Arizona
jeans)