NUMBER 1204 |
July 14, 2009 |
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CORN |
SOYBEAN |
TOBACCO |
VEGETABLES |
FRUIT CROPS |
SHADE TREES & ORNAMENTALS |
LANDSCAPE |
GENERAL PEST |
Update on Blue Mold and Other Diseases By Kenny Seebold |
The overall blue mold risk will be fairly low through the beginning of next week for Kentucky, assuming that disease did not crop up from the 4th of July event. Fungicide applications targeted at blue mold are not needed unless active blue mold is found; however, those seeing target spot may consider making an application of Quadris at 8 fl oz/A around layby for protection against this disease. Having Quadris in place for target spot will also help protect against blue mold. If the blue mold situation changes, we’ll post an alert through the Kentucky Blue Mold Warning System and on the Kentucky Tobacco Disease Information Page (www.uky.edu/Ag/KPN/kyblue/kyblue.htm). Please urge producers (particularly in eastern KY)to check their crops regularly for blue mold, and let me know if you suspect or find the disease in your area.
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Check Tobacco Barns for Hornets and Bumble Bees before Harvest By Lee Townsend |
Paper wasps, hornets and yellowjackets, and bumble bees often nest in and around barns but also can occur in some unexpected places. In addition to painful stings, people working high up on rails in a barn can be injured as they try to escape these angry insects. As if this were not enough, some people can have a severe allergic reaction to the venom of these insects. Wasps, hornets and yellowjackets are more dangerous and unpredictable than honey bees and should be treated with respect; nests should be eliminated with great care and in a specific manner. Paper wasps, hornets and yellowjackets construct nests of a paper-like material which is a mixture of finely chewed wood fragments and salivary secretions of the wasps. Paper wasps typically build their umbrella-shaped nests under eaves and ledges. These wasps are not as aggressive as yellowjackets or hornets, and can be eliminated rather easily with a wasp and hornet spray sold at most grocery and hardware stores. These formulations have an added advantage in that they often spray as far as 20 feet. Treatment of wasps, hornets, and yellowjackets is best performed at night; paper wasps can be eliminated during the daytime provided you do not stand directly below the nest during treatment. Most wasp and hornet sprays cause insects to drop instantly when contacted by the insecticide. Standing directly below a nest increases one's risk of being stung. Following treatment, wait a day to ensure that the colony is destroyed, then scrape or knock down the nest. This will prevent secondary problems from carpet beetles, ants and other scavenging insects. Hornets are far more difficult and dangerous to control than paper wasps. The nests resemble a large, inverted tear-drop shaped ball which typically is attached to a tree, bush or side of a building. Hornet nests may contain thousands of wasps which are extremely aggressive when disturbed. Treatment can be accomplished by applying a wasp freeze-type, aerosol insecticide or dust formulation (Sevin) directly into the nest opening. Hornet nests have a single opening, usually toward the bottom, where the wasps enter and exit. It is essential that the paper envelope of the nest not be broken open during treatment or the irritated wasps will scatter in all directions, causing even greater problems. Following treatment, wait at least a day before removing the nest to ensure that all of the wasps are killed. If hornets continue to be observed, the application may need to be repeated. Bumble bees can nest in small piles of hay, paper, or other similar materials, usually at ground level. Look for activity around the barn and deal with it before the rush of housing begins.
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Tobacco Insects By Lee Townsend |
Check tobacco about a week before harvest so that a "clean up" spray can be applied if necessary. Be sure to check the harvest interval and restricted entry interval for the product you use. Cutting before this interval has passed can mean insecticide residues above the legal tolerance level. Products containing endosulfan (Thiodan, Phaser, etc.) are no longer recommended by the UK College of Agriculture because of concerns about the residues of this insecticide on tobacco grown for export. Many products containing other active ingredients are available and provide effective pest control without leaving undesirable residues. The number of hornworms present can be determined by carefully examining groups of 20 plants at randomly selected locations over a field. Use a minimum of 5 locations per acre. Hornworms feed in the upper 1/3 of the plant and can be found hanging from the underside of the leaf. In August and September many of them may have small, white, football-shaped objects on their backs. These are cocoons of a tiny wasp that develops inside the hornworm and kills it. Hornworms with these cocoons should not be included in your counts because they are no longer feeding. |
Late Blight Reported on Tomatoes By Kenny Seebold |
We recently found two cases of late blight on tomato in Kentucky – from Laurel and Larue counties. It is too early to tell if our late blight case originated from the same source(s) responsible for the cases in the Northeast, or if natural movement of inoculum occurred from these areas. We do know, though, that we have experienced multiple spells of weather recently that would have been ideal for late blight and we’ve got more rain in the forecast for next week. The following comes from a recent article published by Dr. Meg McGrath of Cornell University (http://www.growingproduce.com/news/avg/?storyid=2111), and provides an excellent description of the disease: “Classic symptoms are large (at least nickel sized) olive green to brown spots on leaves with slightly fuzzy white fungal growth on the underside when conditions have been humid (early morning or after rain). Sometimes the lesion border is yellow or has a water-soaked appearance. Leaf lesions begin as tiny, irregularly-shaped brown spots. Brown to blackish lesions also develop on upper stems. Firm, brown spots develop on tomato fruit. Photographs are posted on the Web at: At this point, we need to make sure that tomatoes and potatoes are protected by regular fungicide sprays (products for late blight can be found in ID-36). For most, this will mean weekly sprays; spray intervals should be shortened to 4-5 days during rainy periods. Not only will we get protection from late blight, but also other diseases; tomatoes in particular are being hammered by bacterial spot in many parts of the state. Make sure that copper fungicides are a part of every spray that goes out on tomatoes – you’ll get protection against bacterial spot and speck, and some suppression of late blight. As you read Dr. McGrath’s article, you will see a number of fungicides that are labeled for control of late blight, and most (if not all) are listed in ID-36. One of the biggest issues that we will run across is finding these products. Because we don’t have a lot of trouble historically with late blight, and because our overall acreage of tomatoes and potatoes is small, our ag dealers don’t stock many of these fungicides. What I can tell you is that, of the products commonly available to commercial growers in KY, we will have the best success with preventive sprays of either chlorothalonil (Bravo and related generics) or mancozeb (Dithane, Penncozeb, or Manzate). These protectants will function well unless we hit long periods of late blight-favorable weather, or if the disease is active in a field. In these cases, we’ll need something stronger. Commonly available fungicides like Quadris, Pristine, or Cabrio are mediocre performers against late blight. Ridomil Gold products may or may not work, depending on the strain of the late blight fungus that is active – many are resistant to Ridomil. Some of the better products, in my experience, include Previcur Flex, Gavel, Presidio, Ranman, Revus, and Tanos. Of these, Previcur Flex, Gavel, and Tanos may be the easiest to find in KY. With any of these late blight-specific fungicides, resistance management is critical; always tank-mix with a protectant product and follow label guidance (number of sprays per season, rates). Homeowners have fewer choices available to them. Essentially, they can use chlorothalonil, mancozeb, or copper products to protect against late blight. Once disease is found, or if conditions are very favorable for disease, these products do not function as well as the late blight-specific materials available to commercial growers. The best course of action for homeowners is to maintain a regular fungicide schedule, and to be prepared to destroy any symptomatic plants immediately. For the present, our fungicide programs on tomatoes and potatoes can rely mainly on chlorothalonil and mancozeb (be mindful of the 5 day PHI on tomatoes / 14 day PHI on potatoes). Only go with stronger materials if late blight is found, or if conditions favor disease and active late blight is known to be present in your area. I can’t over-emphasize the need for a regular fungicide program. Since late blight is such a fast-moving and devastating disease under favorable conditions, our growers shouldn’t wait until they see symptoms before applying fungicides. If you have any questions, or if you find late blight in your area, please let me know. I will do my best to keep you up to speed on this situation.
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Monitor for Grape Root Borer By Ric Bessin |
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Verticillium Wilt is Active in Catalpa and Smoke Tree By John Hartman |
During recent weeks, Verticillium wilt has been diagnosed in the plant disease diagnostic laboratory on smoke tree and catalpa. Verticillium wilt of woody plants is caused by the fungus Verticillium dahliae, or in some cases by V. albo-atrum. The fungus is capable of causing a serious vascular wilt of a wide range of woody plants. Several of our common landscape trees such as ash, katsura tree, magnolia, maple, redbud, and tuliptree are susceptible to Verticillium wilt. Figure 10. Catalpa tree with Verticillium wilt. Note foliage on right side branches has thinned out while foliage on left side of tree is still healthy. Symptoms. By invading the xylem tissues of the tree, Verticillium disrupts the movement of water from the roots to the leaves. As a consequence, leaves wilt and branches die back. This often occurs one branch at a time or on one side of the tree (Figure 10) over a period of several years, but sometimes in only a matter of months or a year. Sometimes, branches simply fail to leaf out in the spring - the result of infection the previous year. Verticillium wilt may also cause marginal browning and leaf scorch, abnormally large seed crops, small leaves, stunting, poor annual growth, and sparse foliage. However, some or all of these symptoms may also be caused by girdling roots, construction injury, bacterial leaf scorch and drought. The catalpa specimen observed last week was at first thought to be bacterial leaf scorch but scorch could not be confirmed with a specialized laboratory test (polymerase chain reaction) and a site visit revealed patterns more suggestive of Verticillium wilt (Figures 11 & 12). Figure 11. Catalpa leaves with marginal leaf scorch. These symptoms could be mistaken for bacterial leaf scorch disease. In this case, it is Verticillium wilt. Figure 12. Verticillium wilt causing basal leaf scorch of Catalpa. This symptom is not typical of bacterial leaf scorch. In the landscape and nursery, one should try to observe additional diagnostic symptoms. Usually, there is staining of xylem and cambial tissue, visible as streaks if you cut into the wood (Figure 13). The color of this staining will vary for different trees often being greenish black in maple (Figure 14), yellowish green in smoke tree, dark brown in redbud, and brown in ash and catalpa. Be aware that often young twigs and branches and some tree species simply don’t show the streaks of stained xylem tissue under the bark and that other fungi and other factors can cause staining. For a positive laboratory diagnosis of Verticillium wilt, stained vascular tissue is essential. Disease biology. The Verticillium fungus survives as resistant, dormant microsclerotia for many years in soil, making effective crop rotation in the nursery or landscape difficult. The fungus infects plant roots through wounds, or in some cases, direct penetration of susceptible root tissue. In the nursery, the Verticillium fungus could also be transmitted from plant to plant by grafting and budding. From the root infections, the fungus spreads into the plant through the xylem. Xylem tissues become blocked so that stems and leaves no longer are supplied with adequate water and mineral elements. After the tree dies, the fungus is returned to the soil as tiny resistant fungal microsclerotia. Microsclerotia can also be spread by wind, in soil, and on equipment. Many herbaceous and weed hosts are also susceptible so it is hard to avoid contaminated soil. Verticillium wilt is favored by landscape stresses such as wounding and drought. It is possible that much of the Verticillium observed in Kentucky now relates back to stresses imposed by the drought last summer. Management.
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Millipedes and Wood Cockroaches - Common Invaders in July By Lee Townsend |
Millipedes can be very abundant in forest litter, grass, thatch, and in mulched areas. These places provide needed food, shelter, and dampness. Usually, millipedes stay out of sight unless abundant rainfall or some other event, such as the mating season, puts them on the move. While harmless and in fact, helpful recyclers, millipedes generally are not welcomed with enthusiasm. They often invade crawl spaces, damp basements and first floors of houses at ground level. Common points of entry include door thresholds (especially at the base of sliding glass doors), expansion joints, and through the voids of concrete block walls. Frequent sightings of these pests indoors usually mean that there are large numbers breeding on the outside in the lawn, or beneath mulch, leaf litter or debris close to the foundation. Because of their moisture requirement, they usually do not survive indoors for more than a few days. Wood cockroaches are typical cockroaches that are about 1 inch long. They live beneath loose bark, in wood piles, stumps, and hollow trees where they feed on decaying organic matter. These males can fly and are attracted to lights at night so they can be accidental invades of home around wooded areas. They also may be brought indoors on firewood. While they resemble the common household pest species, wood cockroaches rarely become established indoors. Managment
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Incredible Bugs of summer By Lee Townsend |
Dobsonflies follow an erratic fluttery path thru the air. They will pinch if handled but are not dangerous. The adults live for only a few days, long enough to mate, lay eggs, and die. Eggs are placed on overhanging branches or undersides of bridges over streams, or on stones. The eggs hatch at night after 5-6 days and drop into the water. The larvae called Ahellgrammites@ live for several years under stones in streams where they feed on insects that live in the water. They are used as bait by fishermen. Eyed elaters appear around damp areas near woods about this time of year. They belong to the click beetle family – beetles that can flip over if placed on their backs. The larvae have a wireworm form and live as predators under bark. |
By Julie Beale and Paul Bachi |
On fruit and vegetable samples, we have diagnosed black rot and downy mildew on grape; red stele and common leaf spot on strawberry; scab and cedar-apple rust on apple; brown rot and scab on peach; scab on pear; powdery mildew and leaf spot (Coccomyces) on cherry; rust on bean; bacterial stalk rot on sweet corn; Microdochium blight and powdery mildew on cantaloupe; bacterial spot on pepper; common scab on potato; bacterial spot, bacterial speck, bacterial canker, early blight, late blight, Septoria leaf spot and southern blight on tomato; and Cercospora leaf spot on watermelon. On ornamentals and turf, we have seen genetic abnormalities on chrysanthemum; Pythium root rot and Phoma canker/dieback on vinca; Botryosphaeria canker, powdery mildew and spot anthracnose on dogwood; Botryosphaeria canker and Dutch elm disease on elm; scab on crabapple; Actinopelte leaf spot and iron deficiency on oak; Verticillium wilt on smoketree; anthracnose and Pythium blight on bentgrass; fairy ring on fescue; necrotic ringspot and summer patch on bluegrass.
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By Patricia Lucas | |||||||||||||||||||||
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NOTE: Trade names are used to simplify the information presented in this newsletter. No endorsement by the Cooperative Extension Service is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not named.